How ancient heads became hostages in a new conflict

Easter Island’s newest hotel is not short of amenities. The Hanga Roa Eco Village has a Finnish sauna, Jacuzzi, and three restaurants. It has patios with sea views. And every Thursday at 6pm, it has Marisol Hito, who goes to those picturesque patios to tell the tourists that they are trespassing.

“I get them when they are outside in the evening,” she says with a certain pride, “taking in the sunset, having a little rest.” If there are construction workers, she sometimes throws a few stones.

Ms Hito says that the land the hotel is on belongs to her family. Like many indigenous Rapa Nui, their word for the island, she considers the Chilean Government, to whom they are a protectorate, little better than a