There’s a dreamlike quality to Essaouira, where the 18th-century stone ramparts shelter the medina from the bracing breezes of the Alizée. The salty trade winds that come straight off the Atlantic onto its long crescent of golden beach have made the Moroccan fishing port a magnet for kitesurfers. They hang out at the beach cafes, which have become rather more sophisticated since the notable occasion, back in 1969, when Jimi Hendrix arrived for a minibreak.
You can take a ride through the dunes on a colourfully garbed dromedary, but after the 3hr 40min flight from London, most will first head to the winding alleys of the old town. In this car-free wonderland, the smell of wood shavings from hole-in-the-wall workshops mingles with the aroma of